Thomas L. McKenney (1758-1859) was the Superintendent of the
Bureau of Indian Affairs when he made this trip. He met Governor Cass
and together they proceeded west for an Indian council and treaty
neogiations.
Detroit, Michigan territory, Friday, June 16, 1826.
My Dear...
I
arrived at this place this morning at ten o'clock, after an agreeable
passage from Buffaloe of thirty-seven hours, exclusive of the time lost
in stopping at Grand river, Cleveland, Sandusky, &c., to put out and
take in passengers - distance about three hundred and thirty miles.
Nothing could be more smooth and beautiful than Lake Erie during the
entire voyage. Scarcely a ripple was seen from the moment upon any part
of it surface, which, however, was undulating. It was the calm of the
face of the lake, but not a levelling of the roll of the wave, which, I
believe, is rarely witnessed. The captain assured me he had seldom had
so smooth a passage.. . . .
From Buffaloe to Presque Isle, a distance of about
ninety miles, the lands are moderately high, rolling, rich, and
beautiful, and appear to be pretty well settled along this entire route.
I make this remark here, because I think them more beautiful and
inviting than the lands on any other section along the southern shore of
the lake. The northern shore I did not see. And now a word about the
magnitude of Lake Erie. I knew its length, that it is somewhere about
300 miles; and sixty broad, and they say two hundred feet deep; and that
its surface is five hundred and sixty-five feet above the tide-water at
Albany; and yet I confess I had no more correct conception of the lake
as it appeared to me, than if I had never had the slightest acquaintance
with its dimensions. All my previous conceptions of a lake fell so far
short of its actual vastness, and ocean-like appearance, as to be wholly
absorbed in the view of it. The general impression we all have of a
lake is, that it some limited, pond-like collection of waters; and
although we have some knowledge of its extent, we do not embrace, in our
thoughts about it, the one-tenth part of its vastness. I never was more
confounded in my life; and could but wonder what my opinion of lakes
will be, after I shall have seen, and navigated Huron and Superior. Lake
Erie, though considerably smaller than either, is a vast sea, and often
more stormy, and even dangerous, than the ocean itself.
It is hardly possible for any thing to exceed in beauty the
river Detroit, and its shores, and islands. The associations, also,
which rise out of the view of such places, as Amherstburg and Malden,
Fighting island, and Spring Wells, and the old Huron church, are full of
interest. I need not dwell upon them, they are connected, the most of
them, at least, with the late war. The British schooner, the Wellington,
was lying at Malden, full of British soldiers, destined, we were
informed, to Drummond's island; and at Amherstburg a centinel was on
guard - but the appearance of the place would lead very naturally to the
inquiry, what is he guarding? There appeared to be little there that
any body would be at much pains to take away. The shores on the British
side are bolder than those on the American, but look as they must have
looked half a century ago. There appears to be nothing going on in the
way of improvement, either in lands or buildings; but a new face is put
on things on the American side, save where, here and there, an old
French family lingers, and wherever that is, the picture of inactivity
and barrenness is visible, just as if reflected from the Canada shores.
The city of Detroit lies on the left of the strait as you
ascend the river, and has a fine appearance. This is heightened by the
position of some fine buildings, and by nothing more than the Catholic
church with its five steeples. The city is long and narrow, and is built
upon the bank of the river, or strait; and upon its first and second
elevations. I should judge the line of buildings, lengthwise of the
city, would measure nearly a mile, but these are scattered. If you had
ever been at Chestertown, on the Eastern shore of Maryland, I would
refer you to it as seen from Primrose's point, as an almost likeness of
Detroit, except that Detroit lacks that beautiful elevation, north, on
which Washington college stands.
The most commanding, and in all respects, the best looking
building, is that which is owned and occupied by Major Biddle. It was
built, I believe, by the unfortunate Hull. I may give you, after I look
around me, a little better conception of Detroit. It has been a theatre
of wars, and especially distinguished, you know, both in earlier and
later times. The two most prominent periods of its history, are, the
siege of Pontiac, the famous Indian chief, in 1763, and the destruction
of the garrison at what is called to this day, "the bloody bridge;" and its remains yet
"Tell ye where the dead
Made the earth wet, and turned th' unwilling waters red;"
and its surrender in 1812, by General Hull. I may, perhaps, write you touching both these events.
On arriving, I was met at the wharf by the Governor's
secretary, Major Forsyth, with the Governor's compliments, and an
invitation to take up my quarters with him. Whilst I appreciated the
kindness of the offer, I was led to decline it, feeling as I do the need
of rest, and of that kind which might not comport so well with the
regulations of a private family. Soon after I had got into quarters, the
Governor called in person, and repeated the request, which I again
declined - but an invitation to dinner was accepted.
At two o'clock I paid my respects, for the first time, in
his own house, to a man, for whom, for fourteen years, I have cherished a
feeling of sincerest attachment, and whose talents will yet be availed
of by the nation, and in some department of the general government. This
is my prediction - mark it. I found him in his house, all that he had
ever appeared to be out of it, and even more interesting. In his
domestic relations, he is sustained by a wife whose manners have blended
in them the captivating union of a fine intelligence, and the best
feelings of the heart; and these are sustained by a suavity that passes
over the ordinary and colder formalities of mere civility, and provides
for herself at once, a lodgment, not merely in one's respect, but in the
heart. An interesting and intelligent daughter, just from
boarding-school, three younger, and one son, compose the members of this
family. I had to pleasure to meet here Mrs. and Col. W -l. Of the
Colonel, you know all that history has preserved - and that is enough;
because it is all honourable. Of his lady, I must be permitted to
express, to you, my high opinion of her intelligence, and accomplished
manners.
I am invited to spend the evening at Major Biddle's, and the
hour having arrived, I must bid you good evening. Say to all, I am
well.
Detroit, Saturday, June 17, 1826.
My Dear...
This morning, after breakfast, while in the sitting room
looking over a newspaper, the distressed female entered, about whom I
have written, and after she was seated, I asked if this was her first
visit to Detroit? She answered it was - adding, "and I am sorry ever to
have visited it at all." "It appears, madam," said I, "to be a pleasant
place; and the society I have met since my arrival is very interesting."
"Yes," she said, "pleasant enough, but what of that; or what matters it
how interesting the society is, to one who is destined to the woods
beyond, never more to see one's family and friends?" She fetched a sigh,
an turning partly round, looked out of the window, to avoid, doubtless,
discovering the agitation which actually shook her. I told her, "it was
a trial, and in feeling it to be one, she gave proof of those
attachments which were creditable to her heart, as such feelings must be
always honourable to their possessor; but, that by indulging them too
far, they become a source of affliction." She said, "yes, I know it; but
I cannot help it - I hope I shall recover from them." This woman is
from the state of New York; and was the only one of the emigrants who
looked as if the world hung loosely about them; and as if when one part
of the garment did not fit well, or keep out the cold, they knew how,
and where, to tuck in another.. . .
The company at Major Biddle's last night, was sufficient to
satisfy me, that although I had reached the confines of our population,
in this direction, I am yet in the circle of hospitable and polished
life. The Major, in all that is sincere and excellent in friendship,
gives proof that he has not forgotten the character which fame has
attached to his name, but maintains the standing that it has acquired in
so many brilliant achievements; and his lady is in all respects highly
accomplished.
I spent the morning in reading, and in writing, and in feeling.
I cannot get rid of thoughts of home, which would be less oppressive
could I hear from there. But, as yet, I am without a line. At two, I
dined with the Governor; and as you may be curious to know what kind of
mansion he occupies, I will give you a sketch of it. It is not exactly
in, nor entirely out of the city - I mean its settled parts; but stands
by itself on the bank of the river, with the road-way from the city
towards Spring Wells, between it and the precipice, or edge of the bank,
down which a diagonal and rough way has been cut to the river. The
house is of cedar logs, and weather boarded, one story, with a high
sharp roof, out of which, and near the centre, comes a short stone
chimney of enormous thickness, and on which the roof leans, being a
little sunk round about it. Before the front door, which is nearly in
the centre of the building, the building being some fifty feet front, is
a porch that, being a little out of its perpendicular position,
inclines north. Its figure is as nearly that of a square as of any other
figure, with a sharp Chinese looking top, that shoots up some three
feet above the eaves of the house, and seems to have in no one place the
least connexion with the building. I told the Governor that my puzzle
was to decide which was built first, the porch or the house. He
acknowledged his inability to decide the question, but added, "the house
itself is anterior to the time of Pontiac's war, there being on it now
the marks of bullets which were shot into it then." I learned afterwards
that the porch had once ornamented a garden as a summer house; but had
been advanced from its retirement to grace the front of the residence of
the executive of the Michigan territory. A post and board fence runs
between the house and the road, the house standing back from the line of
it, some ten or twelve feet. Two gate ways open into the enclosure, one
having been intended to admit, and the other to let you out, over a
circular gravel walk that gives figure to a green plat in front of the
door, and between it and the fence. One of these has been shut up, but
how long don't know - So we go in and come out at the same gate.
The position occupied by this relic of antiquity, is very
beautiful; not on account of the views to it, and from it, only,
although these are both fine, but it is sustained on either side and in
the back ground, by fertile upland meadows, and flourishing orchards and
gardens, which give it a most inviting appearance; and serves to
impress one with the idea of old age surrounded by health and
cheerfulness. In front are the shores of Canada, with the beautiful
river between, and to the right the Huron church, &c. the sound of
the bell from which strikes gratefully upon the ear. Now the inside of
the building.
You enter first into a room, or saloon, of some ten feet
square, in which the Governor receives his business visitors; and where
lie scattered about in some tolerable confusion, newspapers, and the
remains of pamphlets of all sorts, whilst its sides are ornamented with
Indian likenesses, and pipes, and snow shoes, and medals, and bows and
arrows, &c. On your left is the door which leads into the dining
apartment, back of which is another room, (in which is a fire place,) of
about the same size, divided from it by a folding doors. This dining
room is warmed in winter by one half of a stove, whilst the other half,
passing through the partition into the saloon, keeps that comfortable.
From the right of the audience room, or saloon, you enter
the drawing room; and in place of the back room, in the left division,
two rooms are arranged, one of which serves for the library, and the
other for a lodging room. These rooms being all well carpeted and
curtained, and furnished in excellent, but plain style, present a view
of comfort which forms a striking contrast to the exterior; and you are
made to forget, in the midst of these interior accommodations, the
odd-shapen and ancient appearance from without. There is much of the
simplicity of republicanism in all this. Extrinsic appearances are to a
reasonable extend disregarded; and the higher value is attached to the
interior; and this is not an unfit emblem of the Governor himself. You
are not to imagine, however, that this is intended to apply to his
person; that is portly, and altogether governor-like, and in regard to
which he is neat in his dress, and though plain, polished in his
manners.
I have just been shewn the pallet on which I am destined to
repose on the shores of the lakes; and the two stout Mackinac blankets
that are to cover me, and between which I see a pair of nice sheets, and
a pillow, together with a mosquito net; and by the side of these is a
stout oil cloth. This is intended to lie beneath the pallet, by night,
and between it and the ground, and as a covering for it by day; and the
whole, when rolled up, for a seat in the canoe. For this preparation I
am indebted to Mrs. Cass. The Governor is provided with a similar one.
You see I am telling you every thing.
The arrangements for the expedition being generally
anticipated, our company and supplies will leave here in a schooner
called the Young Tiger, as soon as the wind blows fair, for Mackinac,
where barges are ordered to be provided to carry them from thence to the
Fond du Lac. I say as soon as the wind blows fair - for the
current here being at the rate of about two miles the hour, a fair wind
is required to force a vessel through it. We shall proceed as soon as
our supplies are off; unless we are detained by the non-arrival of our
canoe, which, however, we expect hourly. Having never seen a birch
canoe, I am anxious to know in what kind of conveyance I am destined to
go up the lakes.
Good night - ever yours.
Detroit, Sunday, June 18, 1826.
My Dear....
The Governor and family attend the Protestant Episcopal
church; but to-day, on account of the absence of their minister, they
went to the Presbyterian, where, as it was agreed last evening, I
attended also. It is matter of trifling import what name designates the
place in which man holds communion with his Maker, nor who leads his
devotions, provided the offering be sincere, and the hearts of both
speaker and hearer be rightly affected. The Deity fills every place with
his presence, and
"We cannot go where universal love
Smiles not around." . . . .
The morning was wet and disagreeable. I concluded the call
which it was promised would be made at my lodgings, would not therefore
be made - so I went alone in search of the Presbyterian church, but had
not gone a square before I met the carriage.. . .
I had not mentioned to Ben till this morning, that he must
take passage in the Young Tiger - the canoe not being calculated to
carry more than the voyageurs, the Governor, and myself, and the cook.
He had already began to feel himself out of the world, and this
intelligence including in it the idea of separation from me, made a
deep, and apparently painful impression on him. He soon became
reconciled, however, on learning that several persons, our secretary,
Col. Edwards, and others of our party, were going up in the same vessel;
and that we should meet again either at Mackinac, or the Sault de St.
Marie. The wind would every now and then freshen, and blow fair, when
the starting signals would be made. Indeed this had been the case for
several days. I learned that Col. Wool had taken leave so often during
the week, and returned again, as to make it matter of certainty in every
body's opinion, that he would be back again to-day. But the wind that
had baffled so long, now blew steady and stronger, and long enough for
all hands to assemble, and depart. The British schooner, the Wellington,
Capt. McIntosh; the schooner Commerce, and the Lady Washington, all
availed themselves of the same wind, and went in company.
I am doubtful whether Ben or I felt the pain of parting
most. The poor fellow had been all attention to me, and in the seasons
of my indisposition, particularly so; and then the attendance at the
hotel, with all the good dispositions of the landlord, to say the least
of them, might be better - and here again I feel the want of his attentions. I committed him to Col. Wool and Mr. Brush.
We look, now, anxiously for our canoe, that we may follow.
Good night - ever yours.
Detroit, Monday, June 19, 1826.
My Dear....
The morning broke away finely. Soon after breakfast, Major
F. called, and invited me to join him in a ride to the Governor's farm,
about six miles down the river. I accepted the invitation - the ride was
agreeable, as such, but the road passing through what is called Spring
Wells, and over mounds, once the burial places of the Indians of this
quarter, made it one of peculiar interest. Spring Wells are distant from
Detroit about three miles; it was here, you know, General Brock landed
when he captured Detroit. This is the incident that gives special
interest to this place; for to me, the sight of the shore which received
the first tread of that hostile army, could not be looked upon with
indifference, and especially when the landing was but the precursor to
events of the most calamitous and disheartening description - involving
not only the character of the officer, and I may add, his life, to whom
the defence of Detroit was intrusted, but the honour of our country, and
the lives of hundreds of its citizens.
I had been early that morning in company with Colonel H---t,
in praise of whose gentlemanly courtesy, it would not be possible to
say too much - to visit the fort which the unfortunate Hull surrendered,
when the way of the approach of the enemy was pointed out to me, as
were all the places of interest in the city, and which had relation to
that fatal event, even to the ground upon which our garrison was marched
when they were surrendered prisoners of war.
Col. H. having been upon the spot, and familiar with the
events of that day, spoke of them generally, and freely; and of the
parties to them. I forbear their enumeration. The fruits were bitter -
but these are no longer tasted. It is best that every thing relating to
the surrender should perish. The unfortunate Hull, too, is no more. It
is due to ourselves that we tread lightly on his ashes. I have never
been able to get my consent to believe that he sold his command - I
cannot believe that he bartered his country's honour, and the blood of
its citizens, for gold! He is out of reach of censure now; and equally
beyond the reach of any redeeming opinion, though it should be expressed
by the nation. For one, I would be disposed to unburden his memory of
the weight of suspicions so revolting; and which the previous history of
his life will not justify. Yet I take no exception to the judgment of
the court. It was called for. Public opinion, and perhaps justice, as
the case stood, required it. Men who undertake the execution of great
trusts, should know themselves better than to engage in them without a
thorough consciousness that they possess the pre-requisites for their
execution. Now, as to this unhappy officer, I do believe that age had
unnerved him. He became suddenly, and even to himself, mysteriously, the
victim of fear! For it is said, and by the person who first
undeceived him in his calculations upon the Indians, the Wyandotts, I
believe, by pointing them out to him on the Canada shore, whither they
had gone the night before, that his face became instantly colourless,
and his lips wore a purple hue, as if the circulation of the blood had
been arrested, or driven in upon the heart; - and that he was violently
agitated! I received this from the lips of the person who, having seen
the Indians on the British shore on the morning of the attack, waited on
the General to communicate the fact to him. It is said, from that
moment he ceased to be himself - it was, therefore, panic! - He
did not sell his command, nor was he a coward - but he was suddenly and
unexpectedly met by disheartening intelligence, and prostrated by it!
Still the judgment in his case was called for - lessons must be given;
and it is hoped that the one given in the case of the unfortunate Hull,
may act as a warning to all subsequent commanders, and lead them to
examine well into their ability, and in all respects, to stand the fury
and tumult of war, before they engage in conducting it. It is not every
man who can ride on the whirlwind, and direct the storm.
On our return from the Governor's very valuable farm, we
rode upon one of the mounds to which I have referred. There appears to
have been three of them, but only one retains much of its original
conical figure, and this, like the other two, is fast finding its level.
A principal cause of the mounds wasting away, is, the cattle go upon
them to get into the cooler, fresher air, which blows upon them from the
river, near the shore of which they are - to get rid of the flies. The
soil being light and sandy, is kept stirred by them, and the rains wash
it off. Hence the exposure of human bones from time to time, as the
several layers, or strata, are reached; for they appear to have been
buried at different depths, and upon one another. I picked up some ribs,
a bit of an os frontis, and pieces of vertebrae, but
all in a state of decay, so much so, that they crumbled at the touch.
Major F. told me he had taken from the same mound a skull of enormous
dimensions, and so much above the common size, as to be a matter of
curiosity. This is promised to me - "if it can be found." Should I get
it, you shall see it; and it will be the first skull of man or woman,
whose death could not have happened short of a hundred years ago, that
you will have seen. It will not answer, however, for a test of
the doctrine of phrenology, because no mortal lives, now, who can tell
what the character of the man was, who once wore this crown. . . .
If I get the skull, little as it may aid in building up or
pulling down the theory, I shall take it with me on my return. If it
shall turn out to be a perfect and well defined head, it may be admitted
to the honour of being marked off into thirty-three divisions, and of
being talked about by the scientific at Washington, to which honour it
never would have attained, had it lain in its mound, although the
requiem of the waves of the strait would have continued, and however
insensible the skull must have continued to be to the dirge, it would
have sorted better, perhaps, with its untenanted and death-like
condition, to have remained in the mound.
Ever yours.
Detroit, Wednesday, June 21, 1826.
My Dear....
I was not in my usual spirits yesterday, and therefore did
not write. I felt an unaccountable loneliness; and could by the aid of a
little fancy, though surrounded by society and within its reach, and of
the most agreeable and polished sort, have imagined myself on the
island of Juan Fernandez, another Selkirk; and as much of a
solitary as he. I believe this feeling originated in a disappointment in
not having heard from home. It is high time I had a letter. I shall
expect one to-morrow by the steam boat - when I shall hope to see it
headed - "all's well."
I have just returned from a ride of nine miles up the river
to Grosse point, where I have been for the twofold purpose of seeing the
country, and the vessel, (as I hoped I should,) charged with our canoe,
the delay of which, alone, detains us. From Grosse point the prospect
is open to a fine view of Lake St. Clair. The road to this point is
along the margin of the strait, and affords a pretty view of the land
upon the one side, and the water on the other. The grounds, for the
whole way, are certainly excellent, and are for the most part cut up
into small farms, on which are as fine apple orchards as I have ever
seen. Many of them, however, are suffered to run up into shoots and
suckers, and others for the want of attention in pruning off dead limbs,
to go to decay. The inhabitants on this route are principally French.
They appear reconciled to let the earth rest, and the houses to go to
decay around them; and the orchards to decline and die. This portion of
the population, however, is declining fast; another generation or two
will know them only from history, and perhaps from lands which, on
comparison, will be even then found in arrears. When time shall put
those fine, but neglected lands into other and more skilful hands, this
beautiful country will have imparted to it that fruitfulness, and those
charms which nature has done her part in conferring - but not before.
In the middle of the strait, and about two miles above the
city, is a superb island. I could have wished they had called it by
another name than Hog island. It is said to contain a thousand
acres of prime land, but only a small portion of it is cultivated - the
rest is in wood. This beautiful island, too, has been the theatre of
savage barbarity. The spot, however, that attracted most of my
attention, was "the bloody bridge," to which I have already referred.
The remains of it are yet visible, as I have before stated. It was here
that Pontiac by his skill and courage, secured for himself the title of
the brave, and for this bridge that of "bloody." I believe I
promised you a sketch of the siege of Detroit, during which this famous
battle was fought? I would like much to disclose to you the history of
those times, but this alone would require a volume. I will just review
the origin, and progress, and termination of this siege - But I will be
as brief as possible.
The French had held possession of Canada, and exercised an
influence over the Indians of the lake country, for more than a century.
The wars between them, it is true, were frequent and bloody; but these
being succeeded by seasons of peace, the Indians were, meanwhile,
operated upon by presents, and by the priests, and not a little by the
growing power of the French, until at last the animosity of the
aborigines gradually subsided, and was succeeded by attachment; or, if
not by this, by a state of dependence in matters of trade which led them
to wish success to the French, at least over the English. They had
surveyed the French power, and had contended with it. They knew how far
it was intended to operate upon them, and the limits that had been
assigned to it. It was grown familiar to them; as had, also, the French
traders. When, therefore, this connexion was dissolved by the ascendency
of the British power, in 1760, and Montreal and its dependencies in the
lake country, fell under British rule, the Indians, ignorant of the
relations in which they were to stand towards this new power, and
cherishing a sympathy for the French, became restless, and following
their warlike propensities, were prepared to rally under the banners of a
leader, and measure strength with the new power. It was under these
circumstances, and at this period, that Pontiac, an Ottawa chief, a man
of wonderful resource, of deep and daring device, and stratagem, and
gifted, withal, with a most commanding eloquence, resolved on
prostrating the British power, and securing to himself and people,
freedom alike from both French and English rule. His efforts were
unremitted; and throughout the vast regions of the north-west, his
active spirit was felt by the numerous bands inhabiting there. His was
the power that operated upon masses. But there was no sounding of the
tocsin - no alarm of war was given - no motion of the wave was felt- but
a breeze was heard, and a deep and silent stream was made to flow; and
although it was seen by the eyes of observing Englishmen, it was taken
for a stream of fertility, which was passing on, enriching and
beautifying the region as it went. It was a deceitful stream! for
Pontiac was busy in all directions multiplying currents, which at the
concerted moment, were to be precipitated into it, and like a mountain
torrent, he intended that in its course it should sweep every thing away
before it.
It was in the month of November of the year 1760, that Major
Gladwin was detached by General Amherst, the commander-in-chief, and
then at Montreal, with a thousand men, to take possession of Detroit.
Owing to the advanced state of the season they penetrated no further
than Niagara - but wintered there, and employed the early part of the
following spring and summer in preparing boats and fitting out the
expedition. In September following they arrived at Detroit, when the
post was formally surrendered by the French, and taken possession of by
the English. In the following month Major Rogers, with his rangers, who
had accompanied Major Gladwin to Detroit, took possession in like manner
of Michillimackinac.
The first object that engaged Major Gladwin's attention, was
to secure the friendship of the Indians, to do which he held treaties
with them at Saginac, the river Raisin, and at Brownstown. He thought he
had realized this object. In the spring of 1762, every thing appearing
quiet, the British Fur Company commenced the prosecution of the Indian
trade; and in the month of June a party set out to open this traffic,
protected by a company of rangers. They left Michillimackinac in bark
canoes, destined for the Grand Portage. Here a post was established,
which being defended by a stockade work, the rangers separated from the
trading party, and came on to Detroit, where they arrived in October.
Every circumstance justified the English in concluding that the Indians
were satisfied with this new state of things. Nor were any signs of
dissatisfaction manifested until the spring of 1763. It was at that
period the commissioners were appointed to explore the southern shores
of Lakes Michigan and Huron; and to confirm the apparently friendly
dispositions of the Indians; and, where it was necessary, to treat with
them for such portions of lands as might be considered important for
military posts. On arriving at the south-west point of Lake Michigan,
the party was met by numerous bands of Indians, who discovered signs of
unfriendliness; so much so, that the commissioners concluded it best to
abandon the enterprize. They did so, and returned to Detroit, when Major
Gladwin deemed it expedient to send confidential persons among the
Indians of the river Huron, to ascertain, if possible, their disposition
towards the English, and whether those indications of hostility, as
manifested on Lake Michigan, were general. Such was the report of those
agents, so adroitly did the Indians cover their deep laid plans, that
Major Gladwin concluded, all was safe; and that no feelings other than
those of the most friendly sort, animated them. But he was a vigilant
officer, and as such lost no time in putting his command in the best
possible situation for defence in any emergency. At the same time,
acting under the influence of the report of the commissioners as to the
aspect of things in regard to the Indians of Lake Michigan, he kept
scouts constantly in motion, that in the event of a movement being made,
he might have the earliest information.
Every thing was calm. Peace, and the prospect of a long
continuance of it, except the excitement at Lake Michigan, (and that was
not sustained by the Indians in other quarters) seemed certain - when
at this moment of stillness, and when not a note of the war drum was
heard, a scout returned bring the information that a large body of
Indians were in Lake St. Clair, in canoes, coming in the direction of
Detroit, whilst numerous traces of them were discovered coming in from
almost all directions, towards the strait. In the month of August,
Pontiac appeared in the neighbourhood, followed by about three thousand
Indians, who in a few days after, and in the most friendly manner, put
up their lodges, (poles covered with rush mats,) around the village and
the fort, and began, as was their custom, to play at their several games
of ball, &c. In the midst of these amusements, Pontiac proposed to
treat with Major Gladwin. This wily chief had already captured
Michillimackinac - but no tidings of this had yet reached Major Gladwin.
That capture was made by stratagem; and stratagem was resorted to for
the capture of Detroit. He obtained the interview - and told Major
Gladwin, that he and his people desired to take their new father, the
king of England, by the hand; and requested a council. It was granted,
and the third day after the interview was set apart for the meeting.
Major Gladwin, although impressed with the sincerity of Pontiac, was
nevertheless guarded in his intercourse with him; and to prevent
surprise, it was made a standing order, that not more than six Indians
should enter the fort at any one time, except the squaws, and these were
permitted to come and go as they pleased, and especially as they made
moccasins and other things for the soldiers. It was also the
understanding, that the council should be held in the fort; and that not
more than thirty-six chiefs should be present.
The day before the council was to have been held, a squaw
who had received of Major Gladwin an elk skin, out of which to make him
moccasins, returned with the moccasins and the remainder of the skin.
The Major was so much pleased with her skill as to request her to take
the skin and make another pair like those she had made for him, for a
friend. She received the skin, but instead of leaving the fort, loitered
about within it until the hour arrived when an officer, whose duty it
was, went round the fort to clear it of strangers. On coming to this
squaw, she manifested a reluctance to go out. At last, she handed the
skin to Major Gladwin, to whom the officer had conducted her, and then
said she was willing to go. There was something so peculiar in her
manner, as to induce Major Gladwin to insist on knowing why she would
not take the skin with her, when she answered - "because I can never bring it back again." This answer increased the anxiety of the Major, and he urged her to tell him why
she could never bring it back. At last, and after exacting a promise
that she was willing to disclose should remain a secret, she said -
"Pontiac has formed a plot. He is to meet you in council to-morrow with
thirty-six chiefs. Each of these chiefs will come with his gun, but it
will be cut short and hid under his blanket. He is to give a signal. It
will be this. In the course of his speech, and at the moment he draws
out the belt of wampum, those short guns will be fired - you and your
officers are to be shot - then they are to rush to the gate and let in
the warriors." The skin was taken by the Major, who thanked her for her
information, when the squaw left the fort.
The gates of the fort were now barred, and the usual watch
set. In the night a yell was heard! It was new in character - it was
answered down the lines of Pontiac's encampment. A feeling of
apprehension ran through the garrison. The fires were ordered to be
extinguished, and the garrison to repair to its posts. Every thing was
silent! But the yell was not repeated, nor was the garrison attacked.
Similar precaution was observed after day-break. Only one half the
garrison was permitted, at once, to set down to breakfast. The hour -
about ten o'clock, arrived, when Pontiac and his chiefs were to meet in
council. Meanwhile, Major Gladwin drew out his men and faced them
inwards round the council house. Pontiac, with his thirty-six chiefs,
arrived, and close after them came a large body of his warriors - bu
when the number stipulated had entered, the gates were shut. Pontiac
eyed this array of the garrison, and on arriving at the council house,
demanded of Major Gladwin what it meant? - and asked if it was not a new
way to hold council with men under arms. He went so far as to require
that they should be sent to their quarters. This, of course, was not
regarded. The council opened - and the moment arrived when the belt was
to be drawn from the pouch that contained it, and which was to be the
signal for the attack; but on reaching that part of his address, this
ceremony was omitted. Pontiac's chiefs looked at each other confounded,
not knowing why their chief had faltered; and Major Gladwin, at the
moment stepping up, tore away the blanket from one of them, and
disclosing the short gun, charged Pontiac with treachery, and a base
design to murder him and his garrison, and ordered him out of the fort.
Other accounts state that Pontiac, on seeing the soldiery
thus drawn up, and the guns pointed, and lighted matches lying beside
them, did not enter the fort. It was, however, certain, that the fort
was immediately attacked, and that the assailants were desperate in
their efforts to carry it. It was now that Pontiac's genius discovered
its fruitfulness; and his bravery was made manifest. At one time, (and
this mode of attack was often renewed,) attempts were made to cut away
the pickets and force an opening into the fort; at another, a cart was
filled with combustible materials, fired, and run up against the
pickets; at another, he conceived the design of setting fire to the
church, the church being near the fort, by means of an arrow and lighted
spunk; but on being warned by the priest, that God would frown on this
act, abandoned it. A constant firing, meanwhile, was kept up by the
assailants upon the fort; and which the fort returned from ten brass
four-pounders, and with small arms - but from the fire of the pieces,
the Indians were in a great measure secured by the nature of the ground -
their range embracing but few of those who were attacking the pickets,
and only those who were at the furtherest remove from them, and upon the
outskirts.
This mode of assault was weakened at last by a resolute
movement of Major Gladwin, who ordered, when the Indians should attack
the pickets again, that the soldiers within should aid in cutting down
that part of them which might be assailed. This was accordingly done.
The Indians seeing the opening made, rushed to it, but were met at the
moment by a discharge of artillery that had been placed opposite the
opening, and driven back with great slaughter. Night coming on, the
Indians drew off. But for eight days the attack was renewed, and with
considerable slaughter on both sides. The garrison now felt itself in
extreme peril. It had been for some time sustained on half rations. But
now, in addition to the growing scarcity of provisions, it was reduced
to three rounds of ammunition a man! Great anxiety was felt for the
arrival of a vessel known to be in the river with supplies. Pontiac
penetrated the perilous condition of the garrison, and to cut off its
expected supplies, headed a detachment of his warriors and went down the
river to intercept them. The detachment descended the river on the
Canada side, and met the vessel at Fighting island, and after a bloody
fight, boarded her. Capt. Goulding, who commanded her, resolving to sell
the prize and his own life at the dearest possible rate, gave orders to
fire the magazine. Some Frenchmen on board hearing the orders,
immediately interpreted them to the Indians, who precipitately left her,
when a breeze sprung up and run the vessel to the fort, before which
she anchored. The Indians now retired from before the fort. A short time
after, Pontiac sent in a flag, and requested that two officers might be
sent to him, with whom he might hold council. The commanding officer
refused to comply. On this refusal being made known to Pontiac, he said -
"Go again. You know me to be faithful to my word. Tell the commander
that no injury shall happen to his officers. Pledge yourself for me,
body for body, for their safe return." Major Gladwin still declined;
when Major Campbell, who was not then in command, and Mr. or Captain
McDougall, volunteered to go out and meet Pontiac. They found him
encamped at the house of Meloche. The ceremony of a council
having been gone through with, Pontiac declared them to be prisoners,
hoping by this act, it is supposed, to procure the surrender of the
fort. The prisoners were treated well, in all respects. Soon after this,
Pontiac intercepted and captured several barges, and subjected the
boatmen to the ordeal of running the gauntlet. Many of them were killed
in this severe punishment, by the squaws. Nothing, meanwhile, transpired
at the fort. The Indians and the garrison, however, kept mutual watch
upon each other; and now and then a solitary shot was fired, as if to
remind the parties that peace was not concluded. Capt. McDougall made
his escape, and got safe to the fort; but Major Campbell, owing to his
age and imperfect sight, declined to make a similar effort. Major
Gladwin, finding his barges intercepted and captured, sent the Beaver, a
small schooner that had arrived since the capture of Michillimackinac,
to Niagara, for a reinforcement. Her passage was prosperous. She
returned in three days, bringing three hundred men. At twelve o'clock of
the night succeeding their arrival, these troops, headed by an officer
whose name is not known, marched out of the fort to attack Pontiac in
his camp, which was near Parent's creek. He took with him two guides,
Messrs. Chapeton, and St. Martin. But though the movement was made in
the night, Pontiac's vigilance was awake. He knew of it; and arranging
his warriors behind a picket fence, on the upper bank of Parent's creek,
he waited the arrival of the troops, who came by the way of the old
river road, and at the moment the column was fairly on the bridge, his
orders were given, and a thousand Indians poured their destructive fires
into it. The detachment was crippled - and fell back; but being hotly
pressed, was nearly annihilated - few escaping, some say only seventeen,
to the fort, to tell of story of the bloody rencontre, or the fate of
their unfortunate companions. This was just as day broke, on the morning
of the 9th of August, 1763. The commanding officer was among
the slain, and his head was chopped off and stuck on a post of a fence.
A Mr. St. Aubin, on visiting the battle-ground on that morning, saw
upon the bridge alone, from eighty to one hundred dead bodies! The
passage over it was stopped up by them! Pontiac, on the day after the
battle, sent for some Canadians who lived near, and pointing to the dead
bodies on the bridge, and to the batteaux in the creek, said - "Take
these dead dogs - put them in those boats of mine, and convey them to
the fort." The order was obeyed, so far as a removal of the bodies were
embraced in it, but they were buried in the cellar of Mr. Sterling's
house. Pontiac, aware that a reinforcement had been brought by means of
the Beaver, harangued his followers, and told them they could not expect
to reduce the fort whilst that vessel was permitted to exist. Means for
her destruction were immediately sought. Barns were pulled down, and
faggots prepared, and large rafts - these were set afloat, and fired.
The vessel was often in the most imminent hazard. Seeing this, Major
Gladwin ordered her down the strait to Niagara. The Indians followed in
their canoes, and by close and desperate fighting, often so near as to
be scorched by the fire from the guns of the schooner, killed all her
crew except three; and these were saved by the timely arrival of two or
three barges which Major Gladwin had sent to support the schooner.
The fort yet resisted the attack of the Indians - when they
became restless, and expressed their desire to take the fort at once, or
to abandon the effort. Another attack was made - when an Ottowa chief,
who was fighting in company with his brother by the side of Pontiac, was
shot. His brother immediately retired, sought Major Campbell, whom he
met walking out near his place of confinement, having had enlargement
given to him by Pontiac, and striking his tomahawk into his head, laid
him dead at his feet! The murderer, knowing of Pontiac's pledge, and
that his vengeance would follow the act, fled to Saginaw, and from
thence to Michillimackinac. Pontiac, on learning the fate of his
captive, sent warriors in all directions after the murderer, but he
could not be found. The death of Major Campbell gave Pontiac great
concern, who was often heard to express his sorrow on account of it.
Soon after this, the Indians departed and went to their
several hunting grounds. In the following spring peace was concluded -
Pontiac having meanwhile sent a peace-belt to all the bands, and one to
Major Gladwin.
This spirited and bloody investment led to extensive
preparations on the part of the English, which resulted in a movement by
General Bradstreet, in the summer of 1764, at the head of three
thousand men, to raise the siege of Detroit. Meanwhile, a corresponding
movement was making at Pittsburg - from whence the forces of that
quarter were to penetrate the western wilderness and form a junction at
Detroit, with General Bradstreet.
Pontiac, it may be presumed, was apprised of these
movements, and hence, no doubt, his proffer of peace, which was
concluded before the arrival of General Bradstreet. This celebrated
chief and warrior survived this peace not more than two years. He went
to Illinois. Carver relates, that he was followed by an Indian who
attended him as a spy; and who, on hearing him express himself in
council, in terms of hostility to the English, plunged his knife into
his heart, and killed him on the spot. By others, it is stated, that he
was killed by an Indian who fell in love with his wife. . . .
It has just occurred to me as not unworthy of remark, that
when the English succeeded the French in the occupancy of those regions,
a warrior arose to oppose them in the person of Pontiac; and (although
not so immediately after the change,) when the Americans succeeded the
English, another, equally distinguished, and following out the same plan,
( a combination of all the tribes east of the Alleghany mountains,)
arose to oppose the Americans, in the person of Tecmthe or Tecumseh, as
he is usually called. It is possible that some chief, equally politic
and daring, and gifted with like powers of eloquence, and capacity for
command, may have headed the tribes, against the French. Their wars, we
know, were desperate, and often bloody.
There seem, then, to have been three periods, (assuming the
first, which it is not unreasonable to do,) in each of which a great
chief arose among the Indians, to lead his people against the
encroachments of the three successive powers that at far distant periods
invaded their country. I might speculate some here, but I am invited to
spend the evening at Col. H ----'s; the Governor and family, I learn,
are to be there, and in general, the beauty and fashion of the city. The
hour has arrived, of which you, no doubt, will be glad - as but for
this, I might wear out your patience in speculations on the thought,
that great events never fail to produce the corresponding genius and
power to direct them.
Good night - ever yours.
P.S. Eleven o'clock. Just returned from the party, and
highly gratified with the company in general; but charmed with the
polite and polished attentions of Mrs. H. and the Colonel. They are both
esteemed to be ornaments of Detroit, and I do not wonder at it.
Detroit, Thursday, June 22, 1826.
My Dear...
It is concluded that we are to leave here to-morrow. Our
canoe not having arrived, we have chartered the schooner Ghent. The want
of wind, or having too much of it, from a wrong quarter, can alone
delay us.
Having some calls to make, and some attentions to bestow
upon certain little matters, which must be looked after preparatory to
our departure, I shall have to be brief in whatever things I may have to
remark upon in regard to this city. As for its appearance, I must
depend on giving you a better conception of that, upon a drawing, if I
can obtain one.* [*Could not command a satisfactory one.] If not, you
must make the most of the slight references which I have already made to
it. I have said, I believe, that the city occupies the first and second
elevations from the river. It shows now one main street, Jefferson
street, I believe it is called, and which is long and pretty well built
upon. The street on the first step from the river, is also well built
upon; and back of Jefferson street, are others, partially set out with
houses, as are the cross streets, of which there are some three or four.
Back of the whole, and some four hundred yards from Jefferson street,
is the state house, a fine building just put up; and between it and the
western end of the city, is the fort, which was surrendered in 1812, by
General Hull. The old fort, which is so called, and against which
Pontiac made his attacks, was only a picket-fort, and on the
water's edge. This is regular built, upon commanding ground, and was
very formidable. This fort, and the grounds belonging to it, and the
buildings, except the public store house, arsenal, and the necessary
grounds for them, and which is at present time in charge of a most
worthy and meritorious gentleman, and one of the relics of the
revolution, I mean Col. P----'s, have been presented to the corporation
of the city of Detroit, by the Congress of the United States; and are
worth to it some hundred thousand dollars. It is to be hoped that
whatever disposition may be made of these grounds, it will never be
permitted that the mounds of the fort lose any of their figure or
loftiness, or an inch of the ditches be filled up.
I have seen a plot of this city. I wish for the sake of its
designer, towards whom, personally, I entertain the kindest feelings,
that it had never been conceived by him. It looks pretty on paper, but
is fanciful; and resembles one of those octagonal spider webs which you
have seen in a dewy morning, with a centre, you know, and lines leading
out to the points round the circumference, and fastened to spires of
grass. The citizens of Detroit would do well, in my opinion, and their
posterity would thank them for it, were they to reduce the net-work of
that plan to something more practical and regular.
I will only add in regard to this city, that its position on
the strait is very beautiful; that its population is about two thousand
five hundred; and that its location is highly favourable for commerce.
The steam boats Superior and Henry Clay, are surpassed by few, if any,
either in size, or beauty of model, or in the style in which they are
built and furnished. But there is business for more; and three or four,
it is believed, are now in a state of forwardness, to run also between
Buffaloe and Detroit. I should infer from what I have seen, that they
all may do a profitable business.
There are in Detroit a court house of brick, (for the county
of Wayne) eighty-eight by sixty feet; a jail, a stone building,
eighty-eight by forty-four feet; an Indian council house, also of stone,
fifty by twenty-seven feet; an academy, fifty by twenty-four feet; a
bank, of brick, only thirty by twenty-five feet; the arsenal, a fine
building of stone, seventy by thirty-four feet, and a public store
house, one hundred and four feet by thirty-four. There is also the Roman
Catholic church with its five steeples, one hundred and sixteen by
sixty feet, upon which, it is said, thirty thousand dollars have been
expended; and for its completion twenty thousand more will be required.
The Presbyterian church, a handsome wooden building seventy feet by
forty, and a Methodist church of brick, fifty by thirty-six feet. There
are also two printing offices, a land office, a custom house, and post
office. The mail arrives three times a week over land, and about twice a
week by the steam boats; and there are some thirty stores, some of them
fine.
Detroit is destined, and at no distant day, to be a
flourishing city. It is an old place, in name, having been settled some
hundred years ago by the French; but it is a city of but yesterday, in
all that relates to its present improvement and appearnance. The French
never went beyond the improvements which are embraced by a few log
houses, built on confined and narrow streets, and a picket fort; and
their leavings were some twenty years ago, I believe, all, or nearly
all, consumed by fire. A gentleman is boarding here in the same house
with me, who built the first house in what is now the compact part of
the city, after the fire. It stands nearly opposite the place where
stood a gateway of the old picket fort, and on the main street.
The press of emigration into the Michigan territory, of
Detroit is the capital, is proof of the high estimate which is taken of
the quality of the lands. In point of sales, I believe the exhibit of
the books of the land office here, will show it to be the first.
Among the number of calls made by me to-day, was one to Mr.
Woodbridge, the secretary of the territory, and there I had the
gratification to see, for the first time, his wife's father, Judge
Trumbull, author, you know, of McFingal. This old veteran in satire and
song, is now in his seventy-sixth year. He has the most perfect use of
his faculties; walks with ease and spirit, and sees to read without the
aid of spectacles, and hears pretty well. His conversation is sprightly
and interesting. Like all men of his age, to him the past looks the
greenest; and he loves to refresh both his spirit and his eyes by
re-viewing it. To me, nothing is more agreeable than the conversation of
a sensible old man, especially if he goes back to the past, which all
persons advanced in age are apt to do.
The Judge must have been, when young, very handsome. He
retains yet the traces of early and uncommon beauty, in both the form
and expression of his face. His eye yet has its sparkle. To look at it,
you would be certain it had been given to flashing out wit - and the the
spirit which animates it, once held close and happy communion with the
muses.
How few, and scattering, are those relics of revolutionary
times! - How venerable are they! - A few years more, and they will have
all sunk into the grave - but their memory can never die.
I have just returned from the Governor's, where I have spent
the evening, and most agreeably, notwithstanding a most furious gust of
wind and rain, accompanied by vivid and frequent flashes of lightning,
and the most appalling thunder. The elements appeared to have united to
produce the wildest disorder and uproar, and to change the very aspect
which, on such occasions, they usually wear. A most remarkable cloud,
dark and gloomy, but coloured in places by a yellow tinge, and which
reached from horizon to horizon, came traversely over the strait, and
the city, widening in its course, and blackening, till the heavens were
shrouded, when the fury of the storm was poured forth! Great fears are
entertained for the steam boat, the Superior, which was expected up
about an hour before the gust arose, but has not yet arrived.
I have this moment heard the signal gun announcing the
arrival of the Superior. She is several hours out of her usual time; no
doubt, in consequence of the gust.
This is my last letter from Detroit, but I shall note our
progress up the lakes, and you shall have, in a journal form, whatever
may occur; and this I will forward to you from time to time, as
opportunity may offer. . . .
From: SKETCHES OF A TOUR TO THE LAKES, OF THE CHARACTER
AND CUSTOMS OF THE CHIPPEWAY INDIANS, AND OF THE INCIDENTS CONNECTED
WITH THE TREATY OF FOND DU LAC by Thomas L.McKenny. Barre, MA: Imprint Society, 1972: 84-118.
See Also:
Dictionary of American Biography.
Viola, Herman J. Thomas L. McKenney, Architect of America's Early Indian Policy: 1816-1830. Chicago: Sage, 1974.